An Interview with Chef James Syhabout of ‘Commis’ in San Francisco

It was a brief chat just before Chef James Syhabout was stepping onto the platform of the day’s cooking demonstration. I was there on the second day of the Four Seasons Bangkok’s 15th World Gourmet Festival. The annual event this year decided to feature young and up-coming chefs who had garnered significant recognitions for their culinary creations.

James Syhabout was born in Ubonratchathani, a Northeastern province of Thailand. But when we was just 2, his family moved to the US and stayed. The little James started messing around in the kitchen with his mother who was running a Thai restaurant in San Francisco when he was just 7 years old. So, it became a no surprise that when he chose his studies later on, the choice was the California Culinary Academy (CCA) where he honed his cooking skills and techniques that became significant tools he applies to creat unique tastes together with his background in the tasty Thai cuisine. In 2009, Chef James was picked by a local magazine (7 x 7 Magazine) as one of their Hot 20 for his fresh take in fine dining. Commis, after all, was established at the peak of the US’ modern day economic recession earlier that very year, but his no-frills fine cuisine managed to thrive and shine.

Four Seasons Bangkok 15th World Gourmet Festival

All gourmet and gorgeous at the Four Seasons Bangkok 15th World Gourmet Festival.

GASTRONOMIC NEWS| FOOD EVENT| HOTEL DINING
Mark your calendar! For during September 1-7, 2014, Four Seasons Bangkok is bringing back their famous World Gourmet Festival that will feature leading chefs and renowned master of wine who will take participants through yet another exiting gastronomic journey. You can reserve tickets to the event here.

With the following chefs having confirmed their appearances.

Afternoon Tea at Four Seasons + Royal China Chinese Restaurant

The scrumptious afternoon tea at the Four Seasons and Royal China Restaurant at Thonglor 10.

DIM SUM IN BANGKOK
FOUR SEASONS RESTAURANT AT MEGA BANGNA
ฮ่องกงฟิชเชอร์แมน ที่เควิลเลจ
CHEF MAN AT EASTIN HOTEL SATHORN
HONG KONG’S CENTURY-OLD LIN HEUNG KUI

FOUR SEASONS CHINESE RESTAURANT THONGLOR ★★★★
2F, Thonglor Soi 10 at @10 Building, Sukhumvit 55, Bangkok, Thailand
T: +66 (0) 2392-6212
Opening Hours
11.00 – 22.00 daily.
Atmosphere: Airy, posh and family-style.
Dishes We Like: BBQ duck, Aromatic duck, Radish cakes, BBQ Pork Puffs, Crispy Pork and Toffee Banana.
Drink Choices: Free-flow Chinese tea or Chrysanthemum tea.
Price: Expect at pay about Bt700-900 per person.
Value for Money: ★★★★
Reservation: Accepted.

For me, there’s something about dim sum that I can’t get enough. One of the world’s most ancient fares, dim sum is deeply a cultural treat. Whereas in its origins such as Southern China and Hong Kong, dim sum is more of a morning deal, in Thailand, we usually have it for lunch. But here at the Four Seasons Restaurant in Thonglor, we can even have it for a scrumptious afternoon tea, as a savoury treat we share with friends, for the place, along with their classic Cantonese staples, also serves their dim sum from 11.00 onwards until 5pm. A great choice for those wishing to avoid the lunch crowds and still get a hearty afternoon feast.

Uptown Chow

Red Dragon Rolls (Bt720) and Harajuku Sashimi (Bt1,800)

First time I learnt making Japanese dishes was at the cooking class of Chef Satoshi Sawada of Shintaro at Four Seasons Bangkok. It was many years back during one of their famous annual World Gourmet Festivals. Chef Sawada was teaching a homemade teriyaki sauce that was so easy and delicious that I never went back to using the pricey bottled version at the supermarket again.

Full Flavoured At 30

Spice Market Thai Restaurant at Four Seasons Bangkok is celebrating its 30th anniversary this April

There might be a small wave of Thai cuisine renaissance going on right now in this capital. Many posh new hotels around town, instead of going all-out with fused-and-new cuisines, choose to stay with the staple local delicacies. Perhaps, we have come full circle to realize that it is the Thai dishes, after all, that satiate us most. We like spices, we like the fury heat, we like rice and we definitely like chilies.

At Biscotti, Some Roma Classics

Homemade Black Truffle Ravioli, Leek and Mascapone with extra shaves of savage Summer Truffle from Northern Italy

OK, call me a snob, but when it comes to picking one good Italian place to eat, I tend to choose Biscotti at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. There’s something about this place that never tires a returning customer. Their action-packed open kitchen exuding salacious aromas like a big, well-fed Italian house is definitely one thing and personally I love their affordable weekday express lunch just perfect for a tasty business meeting.

Flavours as Souvenir

On daily basis, Chef Vincent Thierry says he spends “enough” hours in his kitchen of Michelin three-star “Caprice” restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong. But while working, he brings back memories he collected while traveling onto his signature dishes. One example is “Crab Tiramisu with Fruity Marinade and Tandoori Spices,” one of the appetizers he is now recreating at Madison of Four Seasons Bangkok.

In a brief cooking demonstration, Chef Thierry showed us how his trip to Japan resulted in this “sweet name but savoury” dish. He calls it “souvenirs of flavours” because once he got the idea, he brought together his past journeys, the flavours he tried on each different trips, onto this one single plate. In this case, the crab meat is from the sea of Thailand, the Masala spice from India, and others such as mascarpone cheese and cream from elsewhere. Here is what it looks like on our sampling plate.

For those looking to experience Chef Thierry’s Michelin-star culinary excellence, you should book a table early for only 5 days from NOW – 1 April 2011 that he is cooking 3-course lunch (Bt2,100 ++) and 5-course dinner (Bt3,200++ and with wine pairing at additional Bt4,500++).

On the menu I also see Langoustine Ravioli with Veal Sweetbreads and Wild Mushrooms in Shellfish Bisque Emulsion (above).

Obsiblue Prawn Carpaccio with Sour Cucumber, Wasabi Jelly and Osetra Caviar. And..

Racan Pigeon Feuillete with Foie Gras, Nori Seaweed and Sauteed Artichokes in Warm Vinaigrette.

Four Seasons Bangkok, T: 02 126 8866